Kyrgyzstan

Arriving in Bishkek the capital of Krygyzstan in a heatwave, 40C.

First stop Ibn Sina Peak popularly known as Pik Lenin, 7134m.

Another Aconcagua success

Aconcagua and Argentina is always such a great trip to lead.

On the 8th January, the 13 who started out for the summit all 13 stood on the top of the highest mountain in the Western and Southern Hemispheres.

Rekindling a love of sport climbing

 

It’s been at least 15 years since I clipped bolts seriously on steep overhanging limestone.

Climbing in the Frankenjura for the first time was incredible along with our visits to the mega “kletterhalle” of Munich, Vienna and Innsbruck has made we wish I was younger.

Everest – The North Col

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The steep climb to the North Col.
This is the first technical piece of climbing on #everest.
A 400m steep ice and snow slope that finishes at camp 1, #northcol, 7000m.
It is equipped with fixed ropes and requires a #jumar – a mechanical device that fixes from your harness to the rope to stop you slipping.
Large numbers of “climbers” on a single rope can cause delays and getting cold is a serious problem.
Although a part of climbing, many people on Everest are inexperienced in moving up and down fixed lines, relying on their #sherpas to clip them in and manage the change overs at anchors.                                            
A great lengthy article in the Guardian recently tried to describe the current Everest season antics.

http://www.theguardian.com/world/2015/apr/12/mount-everest-sherpa-disaster-one-year-on

Everest reflections so far

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Today we arrive back in Kathmandu after our 10 days trekking to acclimatise.

We are 14 people and will say goodbye to 3 before heading to Everest Basecamp in China on the north side.

We reached an altitude of 5600m and as a team have got to know each other.
The barriers have dropped and the initial excitement and questions have died down.
Hopefully there will be less questions and probing -what have you climbed before?” or “how high have you been?”.

The 9 remaining Everest team members, all with varying degrees of experience and none having climbed above 8000m now know what they are up against. The trek was not without its problems and we had to overcome cases of altitude sickness, GI problems, gear breakage and loss.

How many will be there on the summit in the middle of May?

Our day in Kathmandu will be time to collect our thoughts before we head to China where we await our turn to enter the Death Zone and claim our prize for 2 months of hardship.

Looking forward to seeing these guys soon

The Sherpas

Without these guys, climbing high mountains is impossible

A 2 part article about the background of the Sherpa people and some of the great mountaineers and people that I have climbed with

See you all in a couple of days in KTM

Mingma Tsiri Sherpa, Ang Dawa Sherpa, Dawa Jamba Sherpa, Jangbu Sherpa, Ongchhu Sherpa, Dorje Khatri

Media media media…

7Days230315

 

These last days are all about the media !!!

Even got a Twitter account @mymountainhighs