Dhaulagiri

 

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Dhaulagiri is the highest mountain located entirely in a single country, Nepal and is the 7th highest mountain in the world at 8,167m.

It was first climbed on 13th May 1960 by a Swiss/Austrian/Nepali expedition.

The parent peak is K2.

The mountain’s name means dazzling, white, beautiful mountain.
In 1808, survey computations showed it to be the highest mountain yet surveyed. This belief existed for 30 years

Dhaulagiri I’s sudden rise from lower terrain is almost unequaled. It rises 7,000 m from the Kali Gandaki River.
The south and west faces rise precipitously over 4,000 m.

As of 2018 there had been around 540 successful ascents.

Unfortunately I suffered kidney problems at 7500m (c4) and had to leave the expedition.

Training for the Himalayan season

 

The best place to be in Europe this February and March was Spain.

I managed to dodge the bad weather and get some great training on the bike, running and of course rock climbing.

The Sierra mountain ranges and parques naturals just north of Malaga were stunning.

The hills and crags in south east Spain around Valencia are a treasure in the winter and full of the pro cycle teams.

 

Watch for details of pre-Everest / 8000m training camps in January and February 2019 to bring you up to speed and be ready for the Spring season.

 

 

 

Another Aconcagua success

Aconcagua and Argentina is always such a great trip to lead.

On the 8th January, the 13 who started out for the summit all 13 stood on the top of the highest mountain in the Western and Southern Hemispheres.

High points in Europe 

 

So we have spent nearly 2 months touring Europe in our newly converted van.

We’ve been ticking the highest mountains of each country as we enjoy these amazing areas; Germany (Zugspitze), Slovakia (Gerlachovsky), Poland (Rysy), Czech (Snezka), Austria (Grossglockner) with more to come.

Everest reflections so far

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Today we arrive back in Kathmandu after our 10 days trekking to acclimatise.

We are 14 people and will say goodbye to 3 before heading to Everest Basecamp in China on the north side.

We reached an altitude of 5600m and as a team have got to know each other.
The barriers have dropped and the initial excitement and questions have died down.
Hopefully there will be less questions and probing -what have you climbed before?” or “how high have you been?”.

The 9 remaining Everest team members, all with varying degrees of experience and none having climbed above 8000m now know what they are up against. The trek was not without its problems and we had to overcome cases of altitude sickness, GI problems, gear breakage and loss.

How many will be there on the summit in the middle of May?

Our day in Kathmandu will be time to collect our thoughts before we head to China where we await our turn to enter the Death Zone and claim our prize for 2 months of hardship.

Sharing experiences of 8000m expeditions

Sharing experiences of 8000m expeditions with the UAE military

Recently I had the opportunity to share my experiences of leading high altitude climbing expeditions around the world with the UAE military

They are planning to climb Cho Oyu in 2015 and then Everest in 2016

Broad Peak overlooking K2

High camp overlooking K2
High camp overlooking K2

High on Broad Peak, 8051m, also known as K3

This is the 12th highest mountain in the world

In the background, the giant and unmistakable pyramid of K2

Winter climbing in Scotland is Savage

Savage Slit

When the weather and conditions are good, winter climbing in Scotland is unbeatable.

Here on Savage Slit, V6 in the Cairngorm National Park.

A modern classic that combines a mixture of drytooling, ice and general scratching and pulling.