Dhaulagiri is the highest mountain located entirely in a single country, Nepal and is the 7th highest mountain in the world at 8,167m.
It was first climbed on 13th May 1960 by a Swiss/Austrian/Nepali expedition.
The parent peak is K2.
The mountain’s name means dazzling, white, beautiful mountain.
In 1808, survey computations showed it to be the highest mountain yet surveyed. This belief existed for 30 years
Dhaulagiri I’s sudden rise from lower terrain is almost unequaled. It rises 7,000 m from the Kali Gandaki River.
The south and west faces rise precipitously over 4,000 m.
As of 2018 there had been around 540 successful ascents.
Unfortunately I suffered kidney problems at 7500m (c4) and had to leave the expedition.
I was last in Pakistan in 2006.
Things have changed somewhat and their excitement at having Imran Khan as PM is clear.
The summer season started with a lot of snow which meant great climbing conditions once it had consolidated and we were the first to summit Gasherbrum 2, well ahead of the other groups.
We used no fixed ropes and broke trail til the summit.
After a testing 2019 season due to changeable weather there was a summit window and we successfully stood on top of Everest, 8848m.
The date was 23rd May 2019 and the time was 08.00 Chinese time.
See you in 2020. Make sure you sign up !!!
There are a number of opportunities to join us in 2019 :
Everest North (summit, basecamp or north col)
April 8th 2019
What do guides do in rest periods ?
Digital art showing a line of climbers above the North Col on Everest, China.
Original plans to spend September in Europe climbing changed quickly and now I’m leading 4 people to Cho Oyu in Tibet.
Sixth highest of the 8000m peaks it is 8201m with stunning views onto Everest, Shishapangma, Makalu, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse and the whole Himalayan range.
This will be my fourth time and this time I’ll be an ambassador for Runderwear.
Ultimate Performance Underwear. Performance Underwear For Committed Athletes. Seamless Technology. Chafe Free. Ergonomic Fit. Multi Award Winning. Breathable Fabric. Sweat Wicking.
http://www.runderwear.ae Online 15% discount code (sean15)
We are confirmed to go back to Everest via the Tibet / China side in 2019.
If you are interested in joining in 2019 or in another year please contact Sean who can give advice and impartial information about training plans, what to expect and the good and bad things about both the north and south routes.
Having a clear out of all the equipment.
Available in the UK, Dubai or posted.
sean (at) mymountainhighs.com
Rab Summit 700 Sleeping Bag 180$
Rab Down Booties 25$ Medium
Millet Shiva Double Climbing Boots 450$ Size 42
Black Diamond Climbing Harness 20$ Medium / Large
Petzl lightweight ice axe 45$
Black Diamond Ice Axe 60cm 75$
Black Diamond Headtorch 25$
8000m Millet salopettes and jacket 575$
6 dehydrated vegan meals 30$
13 dehydrated /wet meals mixture 45$
Black Diamond Guide Gloves Medium 40$
Black Diamond Rucksack Yellow Speed Ascent 50l 80$
Patagonia Beige Softshell Trekking Trousers 30$
The Numbers Game
After extensive research and data collection during the 2018 Everest season here are the statistics
96% of UK Everest climbers are from public schools
85% of climbers are from the USA and India
52% of climbers have a gofundme profile
3% of climbers will arrive at camp 2 with their crampons on the wrong feet
18% of climbers will take an ice axe past ABC on Everest
0% of climbers will be Afro American
95% of ice axes taken above ABC will be used as tent stakes
26% of climbers will spill their stove in their tent
78% of climbers will be displaying a sponsors badge
23% of climbers tried to sell advertising space on their downsuit for more if it was on their chest than their arm
65% of climbers will have more sponsors badges on their jacket than mountains they’ve climbed
100% of climbers will carry a flag to the summit
46% of climbers will carry a soft toy and give it a name
34% of climbers claimed significant mountain features had changed last year
3% of climbers will claim significant mountain features have changed this year
6% of climbers will try to rescue someone and turn around on summit day
89% of those rescuers will be ready to turn around anyway
100% of rescuers will write an article about it
87% of people who publicly criticize other Everest climbers haven’t summited
84% of people who publicly criticize other Everest climbers have beards and haven’t climbed 8a
76% of climbers will use a jumar for the first time on Everest
15% of climbers couldn’t tell the west ridge of Everest from the north ridge when they arrived at basecamp
74% of climbers will bring technical hardware they don’t know what they will use it for
72% of climbers have a justgiving profile
90% of British climbers wear black
90% of European climbers wear primary colors
100% of climbers using acetazolamide will not get a TUE
23% of climbers who have been on Everest and used acetazolamide will claim podiums at sporting events
100% of climbers now know the half-life of acetazolamide is between 10 to 15 hours and it usually takes around 5 to 6 half lives for a drug to be eliminated from your system
33% of climbers will post on a blog that their rotation was “a hard day at the office”
88% of bloggers will use the words “super, uber, so, the moment when, blessed, this one”
0% of climbers know that World No 1 Malaysian sportsman and 3 times Olympic medalist was stripped of medals and banned after testing positive for dexamethasone
51% of operators will claim they have redefined climbing strategy and the Everest experience
100% of people who have climbed Everest in the past but are at home will post a photo and a #tbt during the Everest season
10% of climbers will try to convince you that ginseng will help you acclimatize
50% of climbers will try to convince you garlic soup that will help you acclimatize
76% of climbers will try to throw their menthol hot towels back at the kitchen boy at dinner time
100% of climbers that try to throw their menthol hot towels back to the kitchen boy at dinner time will miss
85% of climbers will receive “be safe” posts from their friends and family
87% of male climbers between the ages of 16 and 25 will get AMS
99% of male climbers between the ages of 16 and 25 are fucking hooligans
46% of climbers will turn their non summits into successful learning experiences
0% of climbers who stayed at home didn’t summit Everest
10% of climbers will be giving 110%
100% of these statistics might be true but more than likely are not
100% of Uk guides use sarcasm
90% of American guides wear badges to show they’ve passed a course
87% of American guides look undernourished, are as tall as volleyball players and wear checked shirts, baseball caps and flip flops even at BC
18% of climbers didn’t know which side of Everest they were climbing
100% of weather forecasts are still only forecasts
100% of groups had 1 client who didn’t want to use walking poles
100% of climbers who didn’t use poles slipped over
36% of climbers had fitted their crampons to their boots before arriving in Kathmandu
18% of those who hadn’t fitted their crampons to their boots prior to arriving in Kathmandu had the wrong size crampon bar for their boots
10% of those who needed to buy a longer crampon bar in Kathmandu were able to find it
43% of climbers asked what the weather forecast was for Everest when they arrived in Kathmandu in April
66% of climbers didn’t realize you had to walk uphill from basecamp to the summit
25% of climbers thought training pre-expedition would help them to be stronger going uphill
76% of climbers who reach the summit of Everest change their profile status to keynote speaker
43% of clients asked if they should gain weight prior to an expedition
65% of clients were overweight
86% of clients were able to read and believe far fetched climbing biographies
87% of climbers were not able to read packing lists or instructions
35% of climbers didn’t realize Everest was in a foreign country with foreign food
30% of climbers thought they wouldn’t eat anything for 60 days
2% of climbers were fell runners from Yorkshire
100% of climbers who were fell runners wore shorts and vest at 7000m in a blizzard
90% of Nepali UIAGM guides couldn’t equalize an anchor
100% of life coaches and fitness instructors from Jumeirah said Coca-Cola was empty calories
87% of climbers started seeing visions of Coca-Cola whilst climbing
50% of climbers thought they were faster than their guides
100% of guides were 400% faster than 100% of their climbers
50% of Everest climbers thought “the journey” would be amazing
80% of Everest climbers didn’t imagine cold, altitude or loss of appetite would be part of their “journey”
100% of climbers who summited forgot about “the journey”
This compliation of statistics is sponsored jointly by Lhasa Beer and Everest Beer