Spring 2018 plans

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Everest North Side again in 2018.
This time a new approach into Tibet through the land border that is now open at Kyirong.
Still time to join the full exped or just the North Col / Lhakpa Ri. Both are great climbs to 7000m.

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Another Aconcagua success

Aconcagua and Argentina is always such a great trip to lead.

On the 8th January, the 13 who started out for the summit all 13 stood on the top of the highest mountain in the Western and Southern Hemispheres.

High points in Europe 

 

So we have spent nearly 2 months touring Europe in our newly converted van.

We’ve been ticking the highest mountains of each country as we enjoy these amazing areas; Germany (Zugspitze), Slovakia (Gerlachovsky), Poland (Rysy), Czech (Snezka), Austria (Grossglockner) with more to come.

Everest Preparation down south

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In January we started our year of travelling, climbing, biking, racing…

The last 3 months have been spent in the Philippines, Australia and New Zealand.

The weather was perfect as was the snow conditions and 6 weeks climbing the mountains of the South Island such as Aspiring and Cook was amazing.

Manaslu – it’s been a while

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It has been a while since the last post but a lot has happened.

The Fall in Nepal saw awesome weather and me and a team of 5 friends summitted Manaslu, 8160m.

This is the 8th highest mountain in the world and absolutely stunning.

We did not use bottled oxygen but had a strong team of Sherpas who helped with the setting of high camps and the ropes.

Updates on expeditions will be here but more often than not on Instagram due to restricted bandwidth.

https://www.instagram.com/seanjames70/

 

 

 

Return to the Himalaya

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In a few days, I’ll be returning to Kathmandu. It will be the 3rd time I’ve led a group on Cho Oyu, 8201m. The 6th highest mountain in the world.

Last time we had a weather window and were lucky with great views from the summit.

You can follow progress on the following links –

https://www.instagram.com/seanjdjames/

and

http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/news/

 

Thanks to Thuraya and CygnusTelecom in Dubai for supporting all communications with an XT Pro satphone and IP+

http://www.thuraya.com/

http://www.cygnustelecom.com/

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Everest – The North Col

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The steep climb to the North Col.
This is the first technical piece of climbing on #everest.
A 400m steep ice and snow slope that finishes at camp 1, #northcol, 7000m.
It is equipped with fixed ropes and requires a #jumar – a mechanical device that fixes from your harness to the rope to stop you slipping.
Large numbers of “climbers” on a single rope can cause delays and getting cold is a serious problem.
Although a part of climbing, many people on Everest are inexperienced in moving up and down fixed lines, relying on their #sherpas to clip them in and manage the change overs at anchors.                                            
A great lengthy article in the Guardian recently tried to describe the current Everest season antics.

http://www.theguardian.com/world/2015/apr/12/mount-everest-sherpa-disaster-one-year-on

Down time

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On an Everest expedition there is always lots of time free.

Team members find many different ways to amuse themselves: Reading, writing, growing strange facial hair, discussing the Bristol Stool Scale, making rock sculptures, listening to music…

Here ex-headmaster Andy is restimulating his interest in art. Kept company by a local cat, he will have a fine collection by the end of the 2 months.

Cold and windy

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Even at only 4800m it’s cold and windy.

We will be climbing nearly double that to 8850m in a few weeks.

On our trek out we had to avoid an angry confrontation with teahouse owners who thought they had our booking.

14 western trekkers with dinner and breakfast is a lot of income to miss out on.

The men of the village threatened to beat our Sherpas who called the local police.