Dhaulagiri is the highest mountain located entirely in a single country, Nepal and is the 7th highest mountain in the world at 8,167m. It was first climbed on 13th May 1960 by a Swiss/Austrian/Nepali expedition. The parent peak is K2. The mountain’s name means dazzling, white, beautiful mountain. In 1808, survey computations showedContinue reading “Dhaulagiri”

Summer in Pakistan – Gasherbrum 2

I was last in Pakistan in 2006. Things have changed somewhat and their excitement at having Imran Khan as PM is clear. The summer season started with a lot of snow which meant great climbing conditions once it had consolidated and we were the first to summit Gasherbrum 2, well ahead of the other groups.Continue reading “Summer in Pakistan – Gasherbrum 2”

Fall 2018

Original plans to spend September in Europe climbing changed quickly and now I’m leading 4 people to Cho Oyu in Tibet. Sixth highest of the 8000m peaks it is 8201m with stunning views onto Everest, Shishapangma, Makalu, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse and the whole Himalayan range. This will be my fourth time and this time I’ll beContinue reading “Fall 2018”

Pik Lenin

22nd July we reached the summit of Pik Lenin, 7134m. Now back for a few days rest in Osh and Bishkek before heading to Khan Tengri and Pik Pobeda.


Arriving in Bishkek the capital of Krygyzstan in a heatwave, 40C. First stop Ibn Sina Peak popularly known as Pik Lenin, 7134m.

Everest 18 Roundup

The Numbers Game After extensive research and data collection during the 2018 Everest season here are the statistics   96% of UK Everest climbers are from public schools 85% of climbers are from the USA and India 52% of climbers have a gofundme profile 3% of climbers will arrive at camp 2 with their cramponsContinue reading “Everest 18 Roundup”

Training for the Himalayan season

  The best place to be in Europe this February and March was Spain. I managed to dodge the bad weather and get some great training on the bike, running and of course rock climbing. The Sierra mountain ranges and parques naturals just north of Malaga were stunning. The hills and crags in south eastContinue reading “Training for the Himalayan season”

Another Aconcagua success

Aconcagua and Argentina is always such a great trip to lead. On the 8th January, the 13 who started out for the summit all 13 stood on the top of the highest mountain in the Western and Southern Hemispheres.