Dhaulagiri is the highest mountain located entirely in a single country, Nepal and is the 7th highest mountain in the world at 8,167m.
It was first climbed on 13th May 1960 by a Swiss/Austrian/Nepali expedition.
The parent peak is K2.
The mountain’s name means dazzling, white, beautiful mountain.
In 1808, survey computations showed it to be the highest mountain yet surveyed. This belief existed for 30 years
Dhaulagiri I’s sudden rise from lower terrain is almost unequaled. It rises 7,000 m from the Kali Gandaki River.
The south and west faces rise precipitously over 4,000 m.
As of 2018 there had been around 540 successful ascents.
Unfortunately I suffered kidney problems at 7500m (c4) and had to leave the expedition.
I was last in Pakistan in 2006.
Things have changed somewhat and their excitement at having Imran Khan as PM is clear.
The summer season started with a lot of snow which meant great climbing conditions once it had consolidated and we were the first to summit Gasherbrum 2, well ahead of the other groups.
We used no fixed ropes and broke trail til the summit.
After a testing 2019 season due to changeable weather there was a summit window and we successfully stood on top of Everest, 8848m.
The date was 23rd May 2019 and the time was 08.00 Chinese time.
See you in 2020. Make sure you sign up !!!
There are a number of opportunities to join us in 2019 :
Everest North (summit, basecamp or north col)
April 8th 2019
More information on Everest North (basecamp, north col or summit)
Continue reading “Join us in 2019”
What do guides do in rest periods ?
Digital art showing a line of climbers above the North Col on Everest, China.
Original plans to spend September in Europe climbing changed quickly and now I’m leading 4 people to Cho Oyu in Tibet.
Sixth highest of the 8000m peaks it is 8201m with stunning views onto Everest, Shishapangma, Makalu, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse and the whole Himalayan range.
This will be my fourth time and this time I’ll be an ambassador for
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We are confirmed to go back to Everest via the Tibet / China side in 2019.
If you are interested in joining in 2019 or in another year please contact Sean who can give advice and impartial information about training plans, what to expect and the good and bad things about both the north and south routes.
Having a clear out of all the equipment.
Available in the UK, Dubai or posted.
sean (at) mymountainhighs.com
Rab Summit 700 Sleeping Bag 180$
Rab Down Booties 25$ Medium
Millet Shiva Double Climbing Boots 450$ Size 42
Black Diamond Climbing Harness 20$ Medium / Large
Petzl lightweight ice axe 45$
Black Diamond Ice Axe 60cm 75$
Black Diamond Headtorch 25$
8000m Millet salopettes and jacket 575$
6 dehydrated vegan meals 30$
13 dehydrated /wet meals mixture 45$
Black Diamond Guide Gloves Medium 40$
Black Diamond Rucksack Yellow Speed Ascent 50l 80$
Patagonia Beige Softshell Trekking Trousers 30$
22nd July we reached the summit of Pik Lenin, 7134m.
Now back for a few days rest in Osh and Bishkek before heading to Khan Tengri and Pik Pobeda.
Arriving in Bishkek the capital of Krygyzstan in a heatwave, 40C.
First stop Ibn Sina Peak popularly known as Pik Lenin, 7134m.